Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Volcanoes have played a major role in the land and the culture of Hawaii. As a result, we believe that a visit to the Big Island would not be complete without a stop at the National Park which encompasses 13,677-foot Mauna Loa, which last erupted in 1984, and 4,000-foot Kilauea, which has been constantly active since 1983, longer than any other volcano in the world. Once you see these volcanoes, you will get a feel for both the kind of beauty – and the danger and destruction – that volcanoes can create.

Starting Out
Enter the Park through the main gate, where you will pay an entrance fee (per vehicle) and receive a map of roads and hiking trails. Hold on to your receipt if you plan to visit the Park more than once during your stay on the Orchid Isle (also known as "The Big Island"), since your admission ticket is good for 7 days.

Be sure to make the Kilauea Visitor Center your first stop. Rangers are on hand to provide you with an orientation to the Park and to update you on current conditions, including tips on where to go to see active lava flows. If you have time, attend one of the ranger’s lectures – we have always found National Park Ranger talks to be informative and entertaining.

Crater Rim Drive
Taking a tour around the circular roadway called Crater Rim Drive is the best way to learn about the Kilauea Volcano. The entire circle is only 11.6 miles, but it provides a fascinating insight into the force and variety of volcanic activity. Take as much or as little time as you like to drive around Crater Rim – numerous hikes are available for those who want to spend the day exploring, but little more than short walks over a paved surface are required for those who only want to spend only an hour or two at the volcano.

The first stop after the Visitor Center is the Sulfur Banks, which emit the familiar rotten-egg smell and which resulted from an eruption in July 1974. Because inhaling these fumes can be dangerous, this stop is not recommended for pregnant women, young children, or people with heart or respiratory ailments. A short bit further along, steam vents release sauna-like steam into the air. If you get close to one of these vents, you can actually hear a hissing sound (similar to a tea kettle boiling) as moisture comes in contact with the hot rocks below. The steam is very hot, and you can burn yourself if you put your hand in it. Also present throughout the Park are signs marking the lava flows and other effects from eruptions over the last thirty years.

The Kilauea Overlookoffers sweeping vistas of the entire Kilauea crater. From here you can see patches of yellow sulfur, numerous steam vents, and the moon-scapes caused by eruptions of lava. Take a few minutes to appreciate the desolation and the absence of living things caused by the movement of hot lava. The Jagger Museum is less than a mile away, and also presents views of the Kilauea crater as well as explaining how volcanic activity originally shaped the islands of Hawaii and continues to add to them today. Look for the specimens of different types of volcanic rock, such as the spun glass called Pele’s hair, the hard, shiny bits of volcanic matter called Pele’s tears, and the porous rocks we know as pumice.

The Halemaumau Crater is believed by some native Hawaiians to be the home of Pele, the goddess of volcanoes. Respect the crater as a sacred site as you explore the area surrounding the Halemaumau Crater Overlook (i.e. don’t take any souvenir rocks home). The "firepit" of Halemaumau Crater is the site of the most eruptions at the summit of Kilauea Volcano. Between 1905 and 1924 a dazzling lake of molten lava circulated within its walls. Then, in 1924, the lake drained away allowing groundwater to penetrate deep inside the volcano. Enormous steam explosions resulted, showering the landscape with rocky debris, still visible around the rim today.

During the 1924 steam blasts, Halemaumau collapsed, forming a gaping pit 1600 meters deep. Since then, 17 eruptions and 4 collapses have occurred in the crater. The net effect has been a slight increase in the crater’s diameter and a decrease in its depth (from 400 meters in 1924 to its present day 85 meters). Note that because of the ongoing volcanic activity here, this area is also dangerous for pregnant women, young children, or people with heart or respiratory ailments.

Viewing Lava Flows
One of the highlights of any visit to the Park is actually seeing hot lava flows. Since most of the flows are currently underground in lava tubes, the best viewing occurs at night, when you can see the glowing lava sliding into the ocean. You can see the evidence of these flows during the daylight by looking for the clouds of steam caused by hot liquid rock hitting the cool water.

The best viewing usually occurs along Chain of Craters Road, although you should check with the Park rangers to confirm daily viewing spots. Note that this road once connected the Park with Route 130, but flows dating back to May 1995 destroyed the easternmost portion of the road, as well as the famous black-sand beach that once stood near its intersection with Route 130.

Although it is most fun to see the flowing lava in the darkness, we recommend that you arrive at least a half hour before nightfall. This will allow you to observe both the steam clouds (which can be considerable) and the fiery-red lava.

Insider Tips
Heed ranger warnings regarding possible danger – they track the constantly changing volcanic conditions and understand the capricious nature of volcanoes better than anyone.

Beware the Nene, the state bird of Hawaii and an endangered species. Not only should you never feed these wild animals, but you should avoid contact with them – they can be nasty (a pair of them actually attacked our car, hammering the passenger door with their beaks!).

Bring plenty of water to drink if you plan to do much hiking: the heat reflected by the volcanic rocks is likely to make you hot and thirsty during your walk and there are no refreshment stands on the trails.

Bring a jacket – Kilauea’s summit can be considerably colder than it is at sea level.

Bring a flashlight if you plan to view the lava flows at night – it will help you traverse the uneven path back to your car safely.

If you are driving over the Chain of Craters Road during the winter, look for whales playing in the Pacific Ocean nearby – it is a popular spot for them to congregate.

A Dangerous Insider Tip
The park rangers do not let you get very close to the lava flows, for obvious reasons. Besides the risk of burning, the lava can cause the ground to become unstable and slip into the ocean, along with you on it. Unfortunately, this, as well as sudden changes in the lava’s direction, have been known to happen. Nonetheless, we met up with a couple who had stayed to watch the lava long after the Rangers stopped patrolling the area. They reported that quite a few visitors did the same thing, which enabled them to walk VERY close to the lava flows. In fact, one crazy person got within 10 feet of the lava. When he returned, it became apparent that his sneakers had melted! If you do what this person did, you deserve everything that happens to you, so don’t say we (and the Rangers) did not warn you.

Getting There
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park can be accessed from Route 11, one mile south of Volcano Village (where you should fill up your gas tank if you are running low, since there is no gas available within the Park). Signs clearly mark the Park entrance.

For More Info
For a recorded update on current volcanic activity, visit the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park web site or call (808) 967-7977.

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