The North End

Can you recite all of Joe Pesci's lines in Goodfellas by heart? Do you grab people behind the ears and passionately kiss them on both cheeks? Do the words gnocchi, panini, mozzarella, and cappuccino make you salivate and start chanting gratzi like a skipping Tony Bennett record? If you answered si to any of these questions, then Boston's North End is definitely for you. Don't worry though, even if the azzurri don't make your heart go pitter-patter, the "most Italian neighborhood in the country" offers endless entertainment and enchantment for everyone.

The North End -- which sits between the Central Artery and the harbor -- is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Boston and has been host to periods of various immigrant influences throughout its history. Since the 1920s, however, Italians and Italian-American culture have dominated it. You see their obvious imprint as you walk down the area's main drag, Hanover Street. Churches, small meeting houses, cafes, and of course, restaurants are everywhere you turn. The sounds, in love or anger, of the Italian tongue are never far away. The Mafia presence is notorious, but probably overstated -- and it is best not to talk about that anyway.

In recent years, though, incoming urban professionals, attracted to the North End's nightlife and proximity to the financial district, have thinned the Italian community out a bit. Many of the restaurants also have become distinctly trendy and slick -- if not downright touristy. This becomes most obvious on weekend nights as limousines and beautiful people fight for space in the hipper restaurants and cafes.

RESTAURANTS
Despite the unwavering stampede for the eateries in the North End, the restaurants are not as uniformly excellent as you might think or hear. There are any number of places that look terrific, have great atmosphere, are extremely hip, and yet offer nothing special in the way of food. I've never had a bad meal in the area, but I have had a few mediocre ones. The high prices are fairly consistent, however: expect to pay between $10-$20 for pasta and $20-$25 for an entrée.

To avoid any kind of culinary let down, head over to the fashionably green Pomodoro (617-367-4348) at 319 Hanover Street. Everything is perfectly balanced at Pomodoro. The menu isn't quite what you would expect from an Italian place, but it isn't too newfangled either. It's chic, but not standoffish. It's happening, but not bustling. In short, it's an excellent place. And the food is constantly surprising and superb as well. Pomodoro seats about 30 people, so on the weekend expect a wait. It will be worth it -- even for $15-$20 a plate. They take reservations but no credit cards.

Also faithfully excellent is Pagliuca's (617-367-1504) at 14 Parmenter Street. While not as adventurous or as classy as Pomodoro, Pagliuca's still packs them in with the best traditional Italian around. You will get enough meat and tomato sauce with garlic to last a lifetime in the nice and cheerful dining room. Dishes cost between $12-$18. Certainly, try out the cheap lunch special. They take reservations and credit cards.

If those two places are filled (which they will be on the weekends) and you don't have time to wait, try Piccola Venezia (617-523-3888) just down the street from Pomodoro. It's a comfortable place, with food in the same price range as Pagliuca's. They accept credit cards, and will take reservations for 6 or more.

Or, if you are pinching pennies (after a few meals in the North End, you'll have to), sample a gluttonous, yet high quality, pizza or calzone from Ernesto's at 69 Salem Street. It's cheap (huge slices for $1.85), tasty, and fun. Bring cash -- that's all they'll take.

If you are going to the North End for dinner try to make reservations (though many places won't take them -- as marked above), or be prepared to stand in line. Sometimes you will be sent to a nearby café for the wait. Be sure to check whether the restaurant you are dining at takes credit cards -- many do not. Also, I wouldn't curse driving to the North End on my worst enemy. It's not just a pain, it's darn near impossible.

CAFÉS
After your huge Italian banquet, a café stop is almost mandatory (especially since many restaurants won't serve coffee or desserts in order to turn over your table). This is my favorite part of a night in the North End. You get all of the milieu and vibrancy of the neighborhood, but at a fraction of the price. These are also great places to stop during the day, for a relaxing snack.

The best and most acclaimed café in the area is the deluxe Caffè Vittoria at 296 Hanover. The Vittoria is a strangely delightful place. The decor is a mixture of pretension and authenticity, and the crowd is the same. The coffee is remarkable, the gelati superior, and you can get your favorite Italian aperitif. There are two sides: smoking and non. Cash only.

Right across from the Vittoria is the Caffè Graffiti, which features delicious pastry and cappuccino. The Graffiti also serves food and wine. Note that it's cash only. In the same block is the Caffè dello Sport, which is a fair place, notable only for its association with Italy's other great love, soccer. And the Caffè Paradiso Espresso Bar (again on Hanover) is a raucous place that serves alcohol until 2 AM. Another place to hit, if you haven't eaten enough already, is Mike's Pastry at 300 Hanover Street. I wouldn't advocate stopping at Mike's if you are on a diet, but your sweet tooth will certainly be satisfied here. It is usually busy and there are a few tables, but it's mostly a take out place. Bring cash and try a cannoli (supposedly, former President Clinton's favorite).

ATTRACTIONS
Of course, it isn't entirely dining that makes the North End a place to visit. History (and it's corresponding attraction, the Freedom Trail) also brings sightseers to the area. Paul Revere's house, built around 1680, looks absorbing from the outside, but really isn't worth the price of admission (which is only a few dollars). The Paul Revere Mall, however, is an agreeable, shaded square, which has some interesting historical plaques for your perusal. Next to Revere's Mall is the famous Old North Church (or properly, Christ Church). It's a pleasant enough glimpse into the past.

During weekends in late summer, the North End celebrates its street festivals, or festes. Different blocks are closed off and different saints are celebrated each weekend. They are like your typical church fair, with Italian styling. That means fried calamari, pasta, and Italian ice at the stalls, and the inevitable Perry Como wannabe on stage performing "That's Amore." Whether you tape a dollar bill to the effigy or not, these festes are good for inexpensive food and amusement.

by Brendon Hanley

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