Russian Hill

Long before North Beach made its mark as a bohemian Mecca, Russian Hill cultivated a reputation of attracting artists and eccentric types. It nurtured such poets as George Sterling, Ambrose Bierce, Mrs. Robert Louis Stevenson and Ina Coolbrith.

Today, the area is the home of the elite, but its stairways and vistas are open to everyone. Russian Hill takes its name, not from any Slavic presence, but from the belief that visiting Russian ship crews down from Sitka to hunt sea otter used to bury their dead there.

The neighborhood's stunning background of downtown high-rises, the blue waters of the San Francisco Bay and bay-windowed houses make ideal backdrops for movie producers. Action-movie producers, in particular, like to use the area's rollercoaster terrain for dramatic car chases and death-defying stunts. Recent films, such as "The Rock," starring Sean Connery and Nicolas Cage and "Metro," featuring Eddie Murphy, have been shot on Russian Hill.

Russian Hill Summits
Russian Hill actually consists of two "summits," one to the north near Lombard and Hyde streets and the other to the south at Vallejo and Jones streets. Let the Hyde Street cable car carry you up to the top of the northern summit at Lombard and Hyde. There, you will see "the crookedest street in the world." You will get beautiful views of the bay, Alcatraz Island and Aquatic Park, filled with historic tall ships docked at the Hyde Street Pier. If you are in a car, be sure to test your driving skill on the red-bricked curvy street. But be careful, the residents aren't thrilled when reckless drivers run over their flower beds or into their garage doors.

On your way to the second "peak" of Russian Hill, swing by the Filbert Street hill at Hyde Street. At 31.5 degrees, this portion of Filbert Street is the steepest driveable grade in San Francisco. Exercise caution when driving down this hill or else you'll end up like the watermelons that David Letterman's crew launched during the "Late Show" host's recent taping in San Francisco.

If you are walking, explore the quaint Macondray Lane, located between Union and Green streets. This little Arcadian lane runs for two blocks, from Leavenworth to Taylor streets, and served as the thinly-disguised setting for the "Barbary Lane" that Armistead Maupin used as a backdrop in his "Tales of the City" stories. Maupin's series first ran in the San Francisco Chronicle in 1976. Beautiful homes with bay views lining the cobblestone path makes it obvious that this lane has become home of the elite.

You will finally reach the second summit by climbing the Vallejo Street steps at Jones Street. This warren of lanes at the top, now exclusive, was once home to an eclectic array of creative types, including Bierce, Gelett Burgess, Frank Norris and Willis Polk, who built his own house at the top of the stairs (1013 Vallejo St.). At the end of the street, you will find the occasional sun-worshipper taking in the afternoon sun on the tiny patch of grass just beyond the cement barrier. From there, you can see San Francisco Bay, North Beach, Coit Tower, the Transamerica Pyramid, the Bay Bridge and Yerba Buena and Treasure islands. This is one of the best views in town - everything seems so close that it makes you want to reach out and hold the City in the palm of your hand.

Taking a Break
If you are tired from all this walking and would like to take a break, you can venture down to Polk Street. This shopping strip has revived in recent years and is now lined with cafés, fine restaurants, specialty food stores and antique shops. Check out Leonard's 2001 (2001 Polk Street, 415-921-2001) for a wide variety of great cheeses; Pure T (2238 Polk Street, 415-441-7878) for specialty iced teas and tea ice cream; The Bagelry (2134 Polk Street,: 415-441-3003) for fresh bagels; and Peet's Coffee (2139 Polk Street, 415-474-1871) for distinctive brews.

by Sherri Eng