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THE INSIDER TRAVEL BLOG

The latest travel information plus insider event and sightseeing tips for New York City, Boston, Hawaii, Philadelphia, San Francisco and Bermuda.

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

Nebo Lodge on North Haven in Maine

We had no idea what to expect when we signed up to attend a writers' conference at Nebo Lodge in the remote island town of North Haven, Maine. The event was organized by beloved writing coach Ruth Herman and hosted by Becky Bartovics, one of the four owners of the Nebo B&B, and included an un-advertised reading by Susan Minot. Writing-wise, it was an inspiring and motivating weekend and we look forward to similar events in the future.

But even without the camaraderie of a group of wonderful writers, we suspect that we would have had a marvelous time in North Haven. The island has a rugged beauty typical of the Maine coast. In warm weather, there are a variety of water sports to enjoy; in autumn, hiking and biking (and for some, hunting) are the preferred outdoor activates. At any time of year, Nebo Lodge provides a relaxing atmosphere -- it's the kind of place where sitting in a rocking chair on the porch all afternoon or spending the evening gazing into a blazing fire in the spacious sitting room are almost required activities. And the local food is fabulous -- look for just-caught lobsters and oysters that go straight from the water to the grill.

Getting to North Haven is half the fun. The island is located off Rockland in Penobscot Bay, with a series of other picaresque islands (from which the rooms at the Lodge take their names). There is no bridge connecting the island to the mainland, so you will need to pick up a ride at the Rockland Ferry Terminal. Plan ahead if you need to take your car, but whether you are driving or walking onto the ferryboat, be sure to allow enough time to admire Janet Redfield's stained glass windows in the terminal building. The large (6 feet in diameter) circular window over the main entrance is especially breathtaking.

If you have some extra time to kill, stop in for an ice cream cone (or in cooler weather, a steaming mug of hot cider topped with cinnamon ice cream) at the Thorndike Creamery, or a great cup of coffee and a snack (well worth the wait) at Second Read Books. The latter has the bonus of offering a nice selection of books on topics of local interest.

If you plan to drive up to Rockland, don't miss the lobster rolls at Lobster Cooker in Freeport. This charming little seafood place is a mere hop away from L.L. Bean, so if you've forgotten to pack any outdoor essentials, you'll find them nearby.

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