Karyatis (Greek)
35-03 Broadway (between 35th and 36th Streets)
Astoria, Queens
(718) 204-0666

When we want authentic Greek food, we head to Astoria. With the second largest ethnic Greek population outside Athens, this neighborhood is filled with restaurants serving Greek cuisine the way it is prepared in the old country.

Our favorite Astoria spot is Karyatis. We like the restaurant's attractive peach-colored decor, the attentive service, their reasonable prices, and above all, the great food. With the flattering lighting and live music playing softly in the background, the cosy dining room can be quite romantic. At other times, the place bustles with enormous family celebrations -- on a recent Saturday evening, our table for two was alone amidst tables for ten and more.

Appetizers
Karyatis has an extensive selection of hot and cold appetizers. If you are tempted by all of them, as we were, try the Pikilia Antipasto, a sampler that comes in two sizes. The small is more than adequate for two people, and includes Octapodaki (pickled baby octopus salad), cubes of imported feta cheese, eggplant mousse, tzatziki (yogurt, garlic and cucumber salad), marinated mushrooms, and fish roe.

Entrees
The Mousaka (well-seasoned ground lamb, layered with sauteed eggplant slices, and topped with bechamel sauce) is the best we have ever had. Arnaki Karyatis, a lamb and vegetable stew, is good, too, although it could have used stronger seasoning. We also liked the hearty Moshari Giouvetsi (beef and rice-shaped pasta cooked in a red wine and tomato sauce and served in a traditional Greek casserole), although like the Arnaki Karyatis, it could have used a bit more zip. All of these dishes go well with Karyatis's sturdy house red wine. For those who prefer something a bit lighter, the menu also includes a number of seafood and pasta dishes.

Dessert
On our last visit, we were disappointed to discover Karyatis was out of the baklava we yearned for. The waiter's description of the substitute dessert -- shredded wheat with nuts and honey -- did not particularly appeal to us, but since we had our hearts set on having something sweet, we decided to try it anyway. We recommend you do the same. The shredded wheat absorbs the clove-flavored honey, making the dish sweet without being overly rich or sugary.

The NYC Insider Site Directory: