Mocca Hungarian
1588 Second Avenue (between 82nd and 83rd Streets)
Manhattan
(212) 734-6470

Neighborhood families, devoted to Mocca Hungarian's traditional European stick-to-your-ribs fare, exchange air-kisses with the hostess as they enter this cheery, if somewhat modest, restaurant. The decor is simple: pressed tin ceiling and walls are painted a creamy white, providing a nice background for the brightly colored plates that decorate the well-lit dining room. But while the atmosphere is unlikely to impress you, the ample portions of comfort food probably will.

Cucumber salad and a cheese spread made of cream cheese, onions and paprika accompany the bread basket and offer you a tasty introduction to Hungarian cuisine as you peruse the menu. We recommend the prix-fixe special -- for just a few dollars more than the average entree price, you will receive soup or an appetizer, your main course, dessert, and coffee or tea, and still be able to choose from most of the items on the menu.

Starters
You can't go wrong with the home-made noodle soup, which mixes thin vermicelli noodles and sliced carrots in a well-seasoned chicken broth. The marinated herring (fish chunks and onion slices served cold in a creamy sauce) is more suited to adventurous folks with a taste for pickled fish.

Entrees
Entree choices include a host of hearty Hungarian favorites like chicken paprikash, goulash and dumplings. We recommend the chicken paprikash -- a generous portion of sauteed chicken in a cream and paprika sauce. The tender chunks of meat in the beef goulash make it an agreeable (if somewhat bland) option, too. Both are served with dumplings and a side vegetable.

Desserts
Hungarian pastries are excellent and Mocca's are no exception. Try the rich home-made strudel -- we liked the apple strudel, although cherry and cheese-filled varieties are also available. We also enjoyed the Somloi Galushi, which is made with cubes of rum-soaked cake, walnuts, and chocolate chips, covered with drizzles of chocolate syrup and topped with whipped cream.

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