Penang (Malaysian)
109 Spring Street
Manhattan
(212) 274-8883

Don't be thrown off by the unusual bar stools made of shovels or the corrugated metal bar when you first enter Penang -- this really isn't just some trendy industrial-themed bar. As you go further, the enticing scents of curry and peanut sauce will assure you that you are in the right place for great Malaysian food.

Try to secure one of the tables in the back room -- it is a serene space full of plants, including orchids which grow in the crevices of the rustic stone waterfall which spans most of the back wall. It helps to have at least 3 in your party if you want a seat in this oasis. Otherwise, you may have to settle for one of the cramped tables for two that line Penang's interior veranda.

Starters
In the mood for a cocktail? Try the Malaysian Coconut Dream. It is a tasty concoction of coconut milk, malibu rum and spiced rum. Or try a regional beer: Penang offers Singha (from Thailand), Kirin (from Japan) and Tsing Tao (from China).

It's hard not to be tempted by the long list of appetizers on the menu. We especially liked the seaweed soup, which has buttery scallops, shrimp, squid, and of course, seaweed, in a delicate miso-like broth. We also enjoyed the poh-piah, a steamed spring roll stuffed with jicama (a starchy vegetable) and coriander, and served with plum sauce.

Recommended Dishes
The menu says sarang burung is "a must" and we agree. It's made of fried taro (which is slightly sweet and has the texture of a baked potato), topped with sauteed vegetables, an assortment of seafood, and a crown of cashews. To be honest, it resembles a bird's nest when it arrives, but don't let that dissuade you.

The beef rendang, which is tender chunks of marinated beef in a rich coconut curry gravy, is also recommended, as is the buah mango, which is a rich and spicy melange of chicken or shrimp, peppers and mango served in a mango shell. Or try one of the noodle entrees, such as the curry mee, which combines egg and rice noodles, chicken, shrimp, and bean sprouts in a spicy lemon grass and curry broth, made silky smooth with coconut.

For dessert, you can't go wrong with the peanut pancakes: delicious, warm crepe-like layers with a sweet peanut filling, topped with slightly melted ice cream. Penang doesn't offer espresso or capuccino, so order the Malaysian coffee instead. Made with sweetened condensed milk, it's a wonderful way to round off your meal.

Other Locations
You can find Penang's Malaysian cuisine in several places around the city.

Following the success of their SoHo restaurant, they opened a place at 240 Columbus Avenue (71st Street). The menu is the same and you will recognize similar themes in the decor, such as the corrugated steel bar and the open kitchen. Although the uptown location lacks the soothing waterfall they have in SoHo, the funky basement bar, with its granite and pine-log walls dimly lit by miners' lamps, helps make up for it. Call (212) 769-8889 for details.

There is also a Penang on the Upper East Side at 1596 Second Avenue near 83rd Street. You'll know you're there when you see the copper barrel-like facade. Here, as elsewhere, the interior design is a mixture of construction site and Asian elements, and the food is absolutely delicious. Phone (212) 585-1968.

The NYC Insider Site Directory: